What Attracts Silverfish and How to Get Rid of Them

Damp air, starch and undisturbed paper are the three things that bring silverfish in, and drying the room is what gets them out

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Last updated September 18, 2026 General Pest Control Ryan Marshall
Short answer

Silverfish are looking for three things at once: damp air, something starchy to eat, and a spot nobody disturbs. A bathroom with a weak exhaust fan, a basement full of cardboard, or a bookshelf against an exterior wall gives them all three. They are carried in with books, boxes and furniture more often than they walk in, and a house with a lot of them has usually had a moisture problem for years, not weeks.

Dry the room first. Then take away the paper and starch, seal the gaps, and treat the cracks and wall voids where they actually live. Spraying the air or fogging an attic does almost nothing.

Common silverfish on a white painted wall, silver-gray tapered body with two long antennae and three tail bristles
The common silverfish, Lepisma saccharinum. Half to three-quarters of an inch, carrot-shaped, covered in silver-gray scales, with two long antennae in front and three bristles behind. This is the one on the bathroom wall at midnight. Photo: Christian Fischer, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

What attracts silverfish, exactly

Clemson counts three silverfish species and one firebrat in South Carolina homes, and every one of them is chasing the same short list. Remove any item on it and the population stalls. Remove all of them and it collapses on its own, slowly.

Humidity, above everything else

Silverfish lose water through their bodies quickly, so they settle where the air stays damp: bathrooms, laundry rooms, basements, crawl spaces and the closets that back onto them. Coastal Carolina and Hampton Roads summers do half the work for them. A bathroom whose exhaust fan vents into the attic rather than outdoors, a dryer duct that has come loose, or a slow leak under a sink will hold a room at the humidity they need year-round. That is why a silverfish problem so often turns out to be a plumbing or ventilation problem with an insect attached.

Starch and protein they can chew

The menu is wider than most people expect. Clemson lists glue, wallpaper paste, the starch in laundered clothing, book bindings, linen, rayon, paper and dried meats. NC State adds glazed paper, the sizing in older book bindings, dried beef and some dry pet foods. In practice that means the box of old tax returns, the paperback shelf, a roll of wallpaper in the garage, the cereal boxes at the back of the pantry and the bag of kibble on the utility-room floor are all food. Cotton and linen count too, which is how a stored tablecloth ends up with holes in it.

Undisturbed storage

Silverfish do not travel far. Clemson notes they are typically brought into a house in food, books, paper, starched clothing and furniture, then spread from wherever that item was put down. A stack of moving boxes left in a damp basement is the classic starting point: it arrived with a few insects inside, it is made of cardboard and glue, and nobody opens it for a year. Clutter matters less for the hiding places it offers than for the food it is made of.

Heat, if it is a firebrat

The firebrat is the exception to the damp-and-cool rule. NC State puts its preferred range at 90°F and above, which is why firebrats turn up around ovens, furnaces, fireplaces, water heaters and in attics in summer. If the insects you are seeing are near the water heater rather than the shower, you probably have firebrats, and the fix starts with heat and moisture around that appliance rather than the whole house.

Silverfish or firebrat? Four species you might be looking at

They all share the shape: flattened, tapering from head to tail, two long antennae and three tail bristles, no wings. Color and location separate them.

Silverfish and firebrats found in Carolina and Virginia homes
SpeciesHow to recognise itWhere it livesWhat that tells you
Common silverfish
Lepisma saccharinum
Uniform silver-gray scales, about half an inch, fast wriggling runBathrooms, basements, laundry rooms, bookshelves on damp wallsLook for a moisture source within a few feet
Gray or long-tailed silverfish
Ctenolepisma longicaudatum
Larger, up to three-quarters of an inch, dull gray, very long bristles and hairy edgesStored paper and books, closets and offices, less tied to wet roomsThe one behind chewed archives and boxed paperwork
Four-lined silverfish
Ctenolepisma lineatum
Four dark stripes running down the backAttics, roof spaces, upper floorsCheck the attic and any roof or gutter leak
Firebrat
Thermobia domestica
Mottled brown and gray, about half an inchAround ovens, furnaces, water heaters, hot pipes, hot atticsHeat, not damp, is the attractant
Gray silverfish on a dark surface, dull gray hairy body with very long antennae and three long tail bristles
Gray silverfish, Ctenolepisma longicaudatum. Bigger and duller than the common silverfish, with bristles almost as long as its body and a fringe of hairs along the sides. This is the species most often found in boxed paperwork and bookshelves rather than the bathroom. Photo: Rene Sylvestersen, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

The signs, and why you rarely see the insect

Silverfish are nocturnal and hide in cracks during the day, so NC State's advice is to look for the evidence rather than the animal. On paper that means irregular chewed patches, notched edges and holes straight through the sheet. On books it is ragged binding edges and surface grazing where the glue was. On fabric it is small irregular holes in stored cotton or linen. Around all of it you may find cast skins, loose scales that look like glitter dust, and fecal specks like ground pepper.

The insects you do see are usually the ones that got trapped: in a sink, a bathtub, or under a book you just lifted. A silverfish in a tub did not come up the drain. It fell in and cannot climb the smooth sides.

Macro photograph of a silverfish head and back showing the small compound eyes, long antennae and rows of overlapping scales
Head and scales, magnified. The overlapping scales give silverfish their sheen and rub off easily, which is what leaves the fine metallic dust on shelves and inside boxes they have been feeding in. Photo: Sanjay Acharya, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Why a bad silverfish problem is usually an old one

Silverfish breed slowly for an insect. Clemson puts a female's lifetime output at about 100 eggs, laid singly or a few at a time, hatching in three to six weeks. The young take four to six weeks to darken to adult color and, depending on the species, three to twenty-four months to mature. Adults then live two to eight years and keep molting for the rest of their lives, which is why you find cast skins from full-sized insects. Firebrats are faster, laying about 50 eggs per batch that hatch in roughly two weeks when it is warm.

Clemson draws the practical conclusion: populations increase slowly, so a house with a large number of silverfish has almost certainly had them, and the damp that supports them, for a long time. The reverse is also true. One silverfish on the bathroom floor is not an infestation. It is a scout, or a passenger that arrived in a box.

What this means in practice

Count before you react. A single silverfish a few times a year in a humid bathroom is normal for the Carolinas and coastal Virginia and needs a better fan, not a treatment. Silverfish in three rooms, or chewed paper anywhere, means an established colony in a wall void or storage area that has been there for years, and the fix has to reach that void.

What actually works

Both extension services agree on the order: change the conditions, find the hot spots, then treat precisely. Clemson is blunt that sanitation alone is not entirely effective once silverfish are living between wall partitions and inside insulation, and NC State is equally blunt that fogging an attic rarely works because the chemical never reaches beneath insulation and stored boxes. The steps below are the ones that do.

  1. Dry the room. Run a dehumidifier in the basement or crawl space, make sure bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans actually vent outdoors, fix leaking plumbing and any roof or gutter fault feeding the attic. This is the step that ends the infestation; everything else shortens the wait.
  2. Find the hot spots with sticky traps. NC State recommends flat glue traps in the rooms where you have seen insects or damage. Silverfish populations are small and scattered, so the traps tell you which wall, closet or shelf to treat instead of treating the whole house. Check them weekly.
  3. Take away the food. Move dry goods and pet food into sealed containers. Go through stored paper, books, magazines and boxes and either dispose of them or repack what you keep in airtight plastic bins rather than cardboard. Store off-season clothing clean and sealed.
  4. Seal the cracks. Caulk gaps along baseboards, around pipe penetrations under sinks, and where trim meets walls in damp rooms. Replace failed weatherstripping. This closes both the hiding places and the routes between rooms.
  5. Treat the voids, not the air. Insecticidal dusts belong in undisturbed places: attics, wall voids, behind baseboards, under appliances. Boric acid baits, the kind used in museums and archives, work well in homes when placed where traps showed activity. Clemson notes it may take 10 to 14 days to see results because insects inside wall voids have to move out and contact the treatment. Skip foggers and broadcast sprays.
  6. Keep it dry afterwards. Once the population is gone, Clemson's guidance is that sanitation and low humidity are what prevent reinfestation. Leave the dehumidifier running through summer and check the traps again each spring.

Do silverfish bite or carry disease?

No. They do not bite, sting or spread disease, and their jaws cannot pierce skin. They are a nuisance pest in the strict sense: the harm is to belongings, and it can be real. A library, a box of photographs or a wedding dress in a damp closet can be ruined quietly over a few years. That is the reason to act, not health.

When to bring someone in

  • You are seeing silverfish in more than one room, which usually means a colony inside a wall or ceiling void rather than a single damp corner.
  • You have found chewing damage on books, paper or fabric, which means an established, feeding population.
  • The moisture source is somewhere you cannot easily dry: a crawl space, a slab, a wall cavity around plumbing.
  • Traps keep filling after you have dried the room and cleared the food, which means the harborage still has not been reached.

A technician can find the harborage, apply dust into the voids that sanitation cannot reach, and tell you which moisture problem is feeding it. In this region that visit is as often about the exhaust fan or the crawl space as it is about the insect. If you are in the Charleston, Columbia or Greenville areas, or across Hampton Roads, our residential pest control plans include silverfish, and the same moisture work that removes them also keeps house centipedes and cockroaches away, since silverfish are on both their menus.

The short version

  • Three attractants, always together: damp air, starch or protein to eat, and undisturbed storage. Firebrats swap damp for heat.
  • They usually arrive in a box. Books, paper, starched clothing and furniture carry them in; they spread from wherever that was put down.
  • A big population is an old population. About 100 eggs per female over a life of two to eight years means a house full of silverfish has had damp for years.
  • Look for evidence, not insects. Notched paper, ragged bindings, cast skins, scales and pepper-like specks show you where to treat.
  • Dry first, trap second, treat third. Dusts and baits in the voids where traps show activity; never foggers.
  • One silverfish is not an infestation. Fix the fan.

Sources: Clemson Cooperative Extension's Home & Garden Information Center fact sheet Silverfish & Firebrats (HGIC 2443), and NC State Extension's Silverfish and Firebrats publication, which cover the life-cycle figures, food list and control guidance used here.

Frequently Asked Questions

Damp air, starchy or protein-rich food, and undisturbed storage. Bathrooms, basements and laundry rooms supply the humidity; paper, book glue, wallpaper paste, cereal boxes, dry pet food, cotton and linen supply the food; boxes and shelves nobody opens supply the shelter. Most are carried in with books, paper or furniture rather than walking in.

Wingless, flattened and carrot-shaped, half to three-quarters of an inch long, covered in silver or gray scales, with two long antennae in front and three tail bristles behind. They run with a quick wriggle. Young ones look the same but whitish. Firebrats are the same shape but mottled brown.

Color and location. Silverfish are silver-gray and live in cool, damp rooms. Firebrats are mottled brown and gray and live where it is hot, 90°F and above, around ovens, furnaces, water heaters and hot attics. If the insects are near an appliance rather than a shower, they are probably firebrats.

No. Silverfish do not bite, sting or carry disease, and their jaws cannot pierce skin. The damage they do is to books, paper, wallpaper and stored fabric, which can be serious over time but is not a health risk.

Slowly. A female lays about 100 eggs in her lifetime, they hatch in three to six weeks, and the young take anywhere from three months to two years to mature depending on the species. Adults live two to eight years. A house with a lot of silverfish has usually had a moisture problem for years.

Lower the humidity first with a dehumidifier, working exhaust fans and leak repairs. Use sticky traps to find where they are concentrated, move food and paper into sealed containers, seal cracks along baseboards and pipes, then apply insecticidal dust or boric acid bait into the voids where the traps showed activity. Expect 10 to 14 days for treatment to reach insects inside walls, and skip foggers.

When you are seeing silverfish in more than one room, when you find chewing damage on books, paper or fabric, or when the moisture source is a crawl space, slab or wall cavity you cannot dry yourself. A technician can reach the wall voids with dust and identify the moisture problem feeding the colony.

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